We finally leave Orsono – the loose wire is just that – and a local mechanico “sorts” it for us – we are back on track and heading south! The Chilean countryside is decidedly “Kiwi” – no two ways about it – with green pastures, grazing cattle, barbed wire fences, poplar trees (just starting to turn in colour) and snow-capped volcanic coned mountains!

Rural scenes that remind us of N.Z.

The side road up to Volcan Osorno is just awesome – twisty, smooth and very steep – with panoramic views out to the lake – and volcanic ash blown on to the road in sporadic patches.

Lake Llanquihe panorama from the Volcan Osorno road.

The beautiful “ash” landscape on Volcan Osorno.

We head back down the mountain and take another side road to Petrohue – for a look at another lake!

Following the river to Petrohue.

Stunning green colours at Petrohue.

Lago Todos los Santos at Petrohue – where you can catch a ferry to Bariloche.

We have had a “thing” with the Pacific Ocean since Vancouver Island – touching our toes in it – or just getting a glimpse. The air freshens as we approach the coast for the last time and the smell of the sea is like a tonic. Very shortly we will fly home across this ocean – followed by our bikes – and it’s starting to leave a lump in our throats!

Little ol’ Lee from Waipu feeling invigorated by the Pacific Ocean at La Arena, Chile.

The road ends at La Arena – you have to catch the car ferry from here – and this is the furtherest south we will venture.

Reloncavi Estuary on an incoming tide.

Caught in a Good Friday “march” – everyone’s wearing or holding crosses!

Around 6,000 German immigrants settled in Southern Chile after 1850 which has had a huge influence on society and the economy. The evidence is all around in the lakes district in the architecture and the style of farming – European deciduous trees everywhere, hydrangeas and Germanic foods.

Another “millpond” lake view at Puerto Octay.

We have our last break at Pucon – right on Lake Villarrica – with another snow-capped volcano overlooking town.

Volcan Villarrica forms the backdrop in Pucon.

Volcan Villarica outside Pucon.

Tip of the Day

It’s a good idea NOT to leave your walking shoes under the bed in last night’s hotel – especially in a country where the largest shoe for a woman in the shops is SIze 38 – and you happen to be a Size 41/42!!

Guess these Size 42 Mens Shoes are going to have to do for now!!

Special People

We are in Pucon – a cute and bustling small town right beneath the picturesque Volcan Villarrica – and it’s Paul’s 60th birthday!! Mamas and Tapas restaurant has a great menu and is perfect for a “special” night – and time for me to reflect on how “special” he is! His contribution to our journey has been “above and beyond” – with his meticulous route planning every step of the way – his amazing “spread-sheets” for maintenance of both the bikes – his conscientious “handling” of all our documents – but most especially for looking after me!!

Happy 60th Birthday Paul!

Best Food

We are in Osorno staying in a cabana, which is sort of like a motel, and apparently the only place to eat in walking distance is called Las Brasas. We head there in the cool evening air – getting directions from locals as we go. It appears like a “truckie” stop on a stretch of motorway – but appearances deceive!! It’s really quite formal with impeccable service – and they have one waiter who can speak quite good English. We order a litre of beer, some glasses and a menu – and while we’re supping our “coldie”, an entree – on the house – arrives. It is called sopaipillas (pronounced sew-pie-pee-yahs) and it’s a small rectangle of pastry which has been allowed to rise, then deep-fried in oil which puffs it up with a crispy outside – which ideally leaves a hollow pocket in the centre. You then fill this pocket with some “pebre” (pronouned par-bra) which is quite a “hot” flavoured salsa – oh man – such an awesome accompaniment with an icy cold beer!! I am definitely going to try cooking these at home!!

On Two Wheels

We are up Volcan Osorno and a group of Brazilian bikers are very impressed by our journey – they are on a two week “romp” around Argentina and Chile – and we meet them again at Petrohue. They all seem to ride BMW1200GS’s in these parts – with KTM990 Adventures coming in second!

The Best Sign

Please don’t throw paper in the toilet!

We now realise that there are much LESS countries in the world where you can actually flush your paper down the toilet than there are that allow it – and in light of the “wet wipe” problem in Australia, it’s not surprising!!

Always a bin beside the toilet for “used” paper!

Story of the Week

By George, we’ve done it!! Eighty thousand kilometres, forty countries and one year!!! We are in Santiago and making arrangements for our return “down under” – and it’s starting to really sink in what we have achieved! Our KTM’s have taken us around the world – across oceans – provided hours of adrenalin-pumped riding – and allowed us to fill our minds with incredible memories. We have met so many interesting and wonderful people – shared stories and become “friends”! The last five months have been in Spanish-speaking countries – trying so many new cuisines and learning about so many different cultures.

We are ready for home now with the thought of our own bed, cooking our own food, cold beers in the fridge and family and friends! Our trip to New Zealand with the bikes that was put on hold for this journey is back on the radar…