We finally leave Orsono – the loose wire is just that – and a local mechanico “sorts” it for us – we are back on track and heading south! The Chilean countryside is decidedly “Kiwi” – no two ways about it – with green pastures, grazing cattle, barbed wire fences, poplar trees (just starting to turn in colour) and snow-capped volcanic coned mountains!
The side road up to Volcan Osorno is just awesome – twisty, smooth and very steep – with panoramic views out to the lake – and volcanic ash blown on to the road in sporadic patches.
We head back down the mountain and take another side road to Petrohue – for a look at another lake!
We have had a “thing” with the Pacific Ocean since Vancouver Island – touching our toes in it – or just getting a glimpse. The air freshens as we approach the coast for the last time and the smell of the sea is like a tonic. Very shortly we will fly home across this ocean – followed by our bikes – and it’s starting to leave a lump in our throats!
The road ends at La Arena – you have to catch the car ferry from here – and this is the furtherest south we will venture.
Around 6,000 German immigrants settled in Southern Chile after 1850 which has had a huge influence on society and the economy. The evidence is all around in the lakes district in the architecture and the style of farming – European deciduous trees everywhere, hydrangeas and Germanic foods.
We have our last break at Pucon – right on Lake Villarrica – with another snow-capped volcano overlooking town.
Tip of the Day
It’s a good idea NOT to leave your walking shoes under the bed in last night’s hotel – especially in a country where the largest shoe for a woman in the shops is SIze 38 – and you happen to be a Size 41/42!!
Special People
We are in Pucon – a cute and bustling small town right beneath the picturesque Volcan Villarrica – and it’s Paul’s 60th birthday!! Mamas and Tapas restaurant has a great menu and is perfect for a “special” night – and time for me to reflect on how “special” he is! His contribution to our journey has been “above and beyond” – with his meticulous route planning every step of the way – his amazing “spread-sheets” for maintenance of both the bikes – his conscientious “handling” of all our documents – but most especially for looking after me!!
Best Food
We are in Osorno staying in a cabana, which is sort of like a motel, and apparently the only place to eat in walking distance is called Las Brasas. We head there in the cool evening air – getting directions from locals as we go. It appears like a “truckie” stop on a stretch of motorway – but appearances deceive!! It’s really quite formal with impeccable service – and they have one waiter who can speak quite good English. We order a litre of beer, some glasses and a menu – and while we’re supping our “coldie”, an entree – on the house – arrives. It is called sopaipillas (pronounced sew-pie-pee-yahs) and it’s a small rectangle of pastry which has been allowed to rise, then deep-fried in oil which puffs it up with a crispy outside – which ideally leaves a hollow pocket in the centre. You then fill this pocket with some “pebre” (pronouned par-bra) which is quite a “hot” flavoured salsa – oh man – such an awesome accompaniment with an icy cold beer!! I am definitely going to try cooking these at home!!
On Two Wheels
We are up Volcan Osorno and a group of Brazilian bikers are very impressed by our journey – they are on a two week “romp” around Argentina and Chile – and we meet them again at Petrohue. They all seem to ride BMW1200GS’s in these parts – with KTM990 Adventures coming in second!
The Best Sign
We now realise that there are much LESS countries in the world where you can actually flush your paper down the toilet than there are that allow it – and in light of the “wet wipe” problem in Australia, it’s not surprising!!
Story of the Week
By George, we’ve done it!! Eighty thousand kilometres, forty countries and one year!!! We are in Santiago and making arrangements for our return “down under” – and it’s starting to really sink in what we have achieved! Our KTM’s have taken us around the world – across oceans – provided hours of adrenalin-pumped riding – and allowed us to fill our minds with incredible memories. We have met so many interesting and wonderful people – shared stories and become “friends”! The last five months have been in Spanish-speaking countries – trying so many new cuisines and learning about so many different cultures.
We are ready for home now with the thought of our own bed, cooking our own food, cold beers in the fridge and family and friends! Our trip to New Zealand with the bikes that was put on hold for this journey is back on the radar…
Hi Lee & Paul
Amazing following your journey – can’t wait to see you back in Oz (over that wine or 3 or 5 or 7 and maybe a couple of beers).
Ro & Allan
Thanks guys! Absoloootally!! Looking forward to it! Talk soon xxxxxx
Happy 60th birthday for last week Paul! What are you planning for your 70th? Hard to top this one.
Thanks Rod! Catch you guys soon in Maleny… xxxx
Wow, congratulations you two. An amazing adventure. We look forward to the untold stories over a quiet wine or three.
Cheers…soon
Looking forward to it guys! xxxxx
Ola Lee y Pablo !
Que bien es de oir de tu viaje!! Congratulations to you both!! A trip of a lifetime & one I’m sure you’ll have many memories of ( both good & ??? ). Will look forward to getting together in the nearish future & reminiscing!!
Till then …… continue the travels & big hugs to you both!
Ross
No hay compañero de las preocupaciones , los fríos en nosotros!! See you in Oz Rossco – with bells on!! Just had a great last night in SA – three beers, two bottles of wine and lots of reminiscing…bring on N.Z!! Big love to you guys xxxx
I thought having Dad as the person in the final episode of the “Special People” segment was quite fitting. You summed him up well.
Cheers Paddy! He’s enjoying not having to “think” about all those things at the moment!! We’re going to try and find him a new watch today to replace the one that fell off his wrist in Central America! Then when he gets back to Australia we have to try and put some “meat” on those bones!!
What an amazing journey you have had with fabulous memories forever. Happy 60th birthday for Thursday Paul. Hope to catch up with you in Auckland at Mum and Dad’s.
Thanks Diane – see you at the Village with bells on!!
You are both awe inspiring! Can’t wait to see what your next adventure will be.
Won’t need one for a while Kerry!! Looking forward to being back in Brissie – catch you soon xxxx
Hey O’Cs
Simply Fantastic !
Have loved reading your blogs, Thanks for taking me along for the ride . So sorry we missed you in Montana and again in Nicaragua, Really amazing you’ve made the year, cultural changes and miles with no major accidents or illnesses. A testament to your dedication and tenacity. I was really hoping to log some miles with you, perhaps on the return trip.
All The Best,
CT
Hey CT! Cheers for your comments…sorry we missed you too – here’s hoping we get to ride somewhere, sometime, it would be great!! Feeling very emotional right now – the bikes are packed and ready to fly and we leave in two days time. Looking forward to home after two years away – have you still got your bike in N.Z?
No, sold the BMW in NZ, just before I left there a couple years ago. A shame since it was a nice bike , but was a pain storing it every time I left. If I get to Oz and you’re up for a ride, I’m sure I can find one to rent. Save journey home.
I think we could sort something out for sure!! The bikes leave Santiago today and meet us in Brisbane on Friday! Having a quick catchup with Paul’s parents – beautiful weather here in Auckland…
Bull,
Now for the $1000 question…..what happened to the Bintang sweater ? Have been missing it in the photos.
Ga, it got put in a bin – probably on Vancouver Island – and it was a “big” moment! We have a wedding in Bali in October so I guess we’ll be shopping again!!!
Hey you guys I am so proud of you both!! You have achieve such a wonderful trip & experienced life to the absolute full leaving no stone unturned!! I can not wait to get pissed with ya’s again to share the wonderful stories I know you will have, along with the insight you have gained. This is so far ahead of the pack you can count yourselves as trend setters to be followed!! Love ya both so much can’t wait for the hugs!! Safe jourey home xxxx
Ps I think I will cry!!!
Let me tell you there were a few tears shed on the motorway to the airport this morning and again when the bikes went into the cargo shed – all wrapped in their “cacoons” – with the next stop Brisbane!! We can’t wait to put the first two cartons of Boags in the fridge – although I don’t think they’ll last long!! Looking forward to that first “session” very much – love you too xxxxx
Hi Guys
Great as always to read your post. What an achievement – so much fun and so many adventures.
Enjoy the last days and looking forward to catching up when your back.
Happy trails
Dave
Have to get our KTM’s together for a ride, Dave!! They went into their “cacoons” this morning at the cargo terminal the cleanest they’ve been since new!! It was quite emotional relinquishing them and now we feel like we’ve lost a limb!! See you very soon xxx
Amazing trip. Well done, awesome planning by Paul and a belated happy birthday.
Hope to see you again one day in old Blighty, NZ when we return there or Brisbane. Xx to you both
Cheers Brian! One of the most magical parts of our journey was all the new friends we made – I’m sure our paths will cross again – for sure!! Of all the places we went, England is where I want to come back!! xxxx
Love reading your news of your travels and would like to pass on birthday wishes to Paul for his special day…..it is amazing what you have accomplished and will have such wonderful memories forever!!! Will look forward to catching up at some stage when you are home and settled and hopefully young Julie will be over from home….love and hugs from all the Cotterill/Bertie Clan in Brisbane 💥🍷😄🍾💞🍻
Thanks Kay – would love to catch up with you guys and I’m sure that sister of mine won’t be far away!! I love Brisbane in autumn – a perfect time to come home! xxxx
Good job, well done! So great to have had you come via Tucson, AZ….Thanks for the visits.
Eighty thousand kilometres!!!!!!!! F—!!!!!!! that is awesome. Safe travels across to EnZed and across the ditch.
Cheers
Phil and Evol
We’re still pinching ourselves Phil!! Bikes packed up this morning – I shed a tear!! Down Under here we come xxxx
Can’t wait to hear more of your great adventures when you are home. Yippee! Happy belated birthday to your very organised man 😉 xx
Cheers Ems! Looking forward to catching up on your life and loves!! C ya soon xxxx
Well done Lee and Paul . Have loved the travel blog and photos and hearing of the experiences . What a year !!!! Xxx
Huge year!! We are in Whangaparaoa for two days (Paul’s Dad is 93) on the way home. Then I think it will be sleep, sleep, sleep!!! xxxx
Awesome. Say hi to Grandma and Pa for me.
P.S. That sweater made it too.
Thanks Pad…will do! It was a good purchase that sweater!! We were shelling peanuts the other night with a beer and thought of that great bar in Victoria with the shells all over the floor!! Love you xxxx
Well done 😀😀. Such an amazing journey and such an achievement. So looking forward to the book!!!
See you soon Aunty! With big hugs xxxoooo
Congratulations on such an achievement! I will miss your regular updates! Have enjoyed journeying around the world with you on the back of a motorbike!!! Certainly won’t be endeavouring to do it myself. I am in awe of the both of you!.
Thank you. Hope to see you when you eventually get back to Brisbane!
Vera
Thanks Vera! A catch-up will be great – will be in touch xxx
CONGRATULATIONS BIKES N BEERS – PAUL & LEE!!!
What an achievement and so many memories for you.
I’m busting to see you and hug you both, then drink a whole heap of beers with you!
Love
Annie
That sounds like a plan Stan!! Bring it on…. xxxxx
Congrats to you both. Welcome to the 60’s Paul.
Is that from one old fart to another?!! Thanks Cuz!! xxx
Well done guys will miss the reading. xxx
Thanks Alison – come down to Brissie soon xxxx
Congratulations you two on achieving your goal – I’m in awe of everything about your trip.
Also, a belated happy birthday Paul; guess you’re now officially an “old prick”!
Am going to miss these regular blogs, will have to revert to the library for other people’s travels!
Safe passage home. XO
Thanks Hirds!! He is an “old prick”!! Does that mean I can trade him in on a “new” model!!! Losing the bikes in the morning – will really feel like it’s “done” then! They are sooooo clean it’s like magic!! Enjoy the Great Ocean Road xxxx
Awesome!!! You guys have had such an amazing journey and it has been great following you all the way! Have a great flight home and we’ll be up to see you guys soon xoxoxo
You bet Pyes! Will be in touch…we have a 3 night stopover with Kev and Les for his 93rd birthday – then home James!! xxxxx
Tash and I climbed that volcano in Pucon! Took us 5hrs and then we got to slid down on our butts!
What an awesome trip you guys have had. We have been back home for two weeks. It’s great seeing all your pictures and reminding us of our trip through South America!
That’s awesome! We’ll have to catch up and compare notes some time!!
You’ve gone and done it! Well what an achievement and adventure. Well done to you both and Happy belated birthday Paul, what a way to celebrate your 60th year! We can’t wait to see you again!
Thanks guys and looking forward to lunch!! Not to mention your smiling faces and a big hug!! xxxxx